Barbarian days
About this book
Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.
Subjects
- biography
- journalists, biography
- large type books
- new york times bestseller
- nyt:expeditions-disasters-and-adventures=2016-05-08
- surfers
- surfing
- voyages and travels